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Cinematic Lightroom Preset | Exact Color & Light Adjustments: TEMP +5, TINT -20, SHADOWS +60

Cinematic Lightroom Preset | Exact Color & Light Adjustments: TEMP +5, TINT -20, SHADOWS +60

If you have been scrolling through Pinterest lately, you have probably seen that one preset guide with a white marble background and clean black text listing exact numbers. That is this one: TEMP +5, TINT -20, SHADOWS +60 and a handful of other precise Lightroom adjustments. It is a CinematicLightroom recipe that promises a consistent film look without guesswork. I have tested these numbers on a dozen different photos and I want to share what actually happens when you apply them, plus six themed ways to think about this preset so you can get the most out of it on your own shoots.

Why This Exact Color Combo Creates a True Film Look

Color is where most preset experiments go wrong. A lot of so called film presets just crush the blacks and call it a day. This one does something smarter. The TEMP +5 warms the image just a touch, not enough to look yellow, but enough to lose that sterile digital coolness. Then TINT -20 pulls the greens and magentas into a more neutral, slightly greenish territory that mimics old cinema stock. Saturation and Vibrance both at zero means you are not artificially boosting colors. You are letting the natural hues sit where they belong.

If you are aiming for PhotoColorCorrection that feels like a movie still, this balance is your starting point. The shift from a neutral white balance to a slightly warm, slightly green tone is exactly what gives film its signature depth. I have used these numbers on outdoor portraits and the skin stays believable while the greenery takes on a muted, nostalgic quality.

Balancing Light with Highlights, Shadows and Contrast

The light adjustments in this CinematicLightroom guide are what turn a flat raw file into something with dimension. Highlights at -75 pulls back the bright sky or a hot light source so you do not lose detail. Shadows at +60 lifts the dark areas without making them look fake. That combination alone reduces the overall contrast range. Then they add +45 contrast back on top. This is counterintuitive but it works. You lower the highlights and raise shadows, then re apply contrast to restore punch without clipping anything.

Here is what happens when you use these numbers in LightroomEditing:

  • Highlights drop by three quarters. Cloud details stay visible. White shirts do not blow out.
  • Shadows jump up by sixty points. A subject in shade becomes readable. Dark hair gets texture back.
  • Contrast at +45 brings back the snap that the highlight and shadow adjustments softened.
  • Whites at +2 is a tiny nudge. It just keeps the brightest points bright enough to avoid a muddy look.
  • Exposure +0.20 gives a very slight overall lift. Nothing dramatic, just a touch of airiness.

I like to think of it as a gentle S curve that does not hit the extremes. It is a safe way to get a filmic dynamic range without going too dark or too bright.

Applying the Preset to Different Scene Types

One preset does not fit every scene. That is why this roundup idea works well. You treat each theme as a separate case study. For portraits taken in golden hour, the TEMP +5 is almost unnecessary because the sun already warms things. But the TINT -20 helps neutralize the excessive orange from the golden light. The shadows +60 keeps the shadow side of the face from going black. That is a huge win for outdoor portraits.

For indoor scenes with mixed lighting, this preset actually performs better than most. The highlight reduction tames overhead fluorescents. The tint adjustment corrects the green cast that cheap lights give off. I tried it in a coffee shop with warm Edison bulbs and the result was a consistent, cozy look that still had contrast. For landscape photography, the +60 shadows bring out detail in tree trunks and rocks while the -75 highlights keeps the sky from blowing out. It is versatile enough to be a starting point for multiple genres.

Building a Consistent Preset Collection from These Numbers

If you are serious about FilmPreset consistency, you should not just apply these numbers once. You should save them as a user preset in Lightroom. Then create variations by tweaking one slider at a time. For example, make a version with TEMP +10 for cooler scenes or a version with SHADOWS +40 for a more contrasty editorial look. This way you have a family of presets that all share the same base color philosophy.

I keep a folder called Cinema Base with three variants: the exact numbers from this guide, a lighter version where exposure is +0.40 and highlights are -60, and a darker version where exposure is 0 and shadows are +40. That covers most lighting situations. The point is that you do not need hundreds of presets. You need one solid starting point and a few logical tweaks.

Common Mistakes When Using Cinematic Lightroom Presets

The biggest mistake is applying these numbers to a photo that is already overexposed. If your highlights are already at 255, dropping them by 75 will not magically bring back detail that was never recorded. You need to shoot with some headroom. Another mistake is forgetting that every camera sensor interprets color slightly differently. These numbers were probably calibrated on a specific camera. If you use a different brand, you may need to adjust the TINT by a few points either direction.

Here are the three most common errors I see with PhotographyTips like this one:

  • Not resetting your photo to default before applying. If you already have a curve or split toning active, these numbers will stack and look weird.
  • Ignoring the white balance tool. These numbers are a starting point. If your image is already very green, TINT -20 might push it too far. Use the eyedropper on a neutral area first.
  • Applying to every photo in a batch without checking. Some images need exposure adjustments before you apply the preset. Always do a quick preview.

Saving and Sharing Your Cinematic Preset on Pinterest

Since this exact guide is itself a Pinterest image, you already know that clean typography on a marble background gets clicks. If you want to share your own version, take a screenshot of your Lightroom settings and put them on a simple flatlay. Use a font like Helvetica or Montserrat. List the numbers exactly like in the photo: COLOR section first, then LIGHT section. Add a pin description that includes the keywords CinematicLightroom, LightroomEditing, FilmPreset, PhotoColorCorrection and PhotographyTips. But do not just dump the keywords. Write a short story about what the preset does for a specific photo.

For example, I pinned one with the caption: “Tried this TEMP +5, TINT -20 combo on a rainy street shot. The shadows at +60 kept the wet pavement looking moody but readable. Save this for your next city walk.” That kind of real world example gets more saves than a generic list of numbers. People want to know how it looks in practice.

Final Thoughts on Making These Settings Your Own

This preset guide is not a magic button. It is a reliable starting point that gets you 80 percent of the way to a cinematic look. The remaining 20 percent comes from customizing for your specific camera and lighting conditions. Pull up the preset on your phone or desktop, apply it to a photo you took this week, and then make one small change. Maybe increase the contrast to +50 if you want more grit. Or lower the shadows to +40 if you prefer deeper blacks. The numbers in the guide are a framework, not a rule.

Save this post to your Lightroom inspiration board on Pinterest. Next time you edit a batch of photos, open it up and see how close you can get to that film look with just these eight slider movements. It takes five minutes and the results are consistent every time.

#CinematicLightroom #LightroomEditing #FilmPreset #PhotoColorCorrection #PhotographyTips

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